TESS

Focus in on Uganda - What is it?
Photo cards by Margaret Stevens

I have always enjoyed taking photos whilst in Teso and when travelling elsewhere in Uganda, many of which I now make into photo cards which are sold in the UK and in Uganda to raise funds for TESS - click here to buy the cards.

I love looking at patterns, colours, textures and shapes found in plants, birds and animals. I try to capture and reveal some of these through my photos, sometimes focusing in close. I have shared some of these in a recent series of photos cards called Focus in on Uganda. If you are puzzled by a photo on one of these cards, you might like to look at the fuller picture here, perhaps to find out what it is or to get more information. We hope you can identify your photo although the exact copy may not be displayed here. More will be added as the series develops.

Whether you have bought some of the cards to send to family and friends, or you have received one of them, I hope you appreciate the cards and enjoy looking at these photos and descriptions. In addition to this series of Focus cards, I have made hundreds of individual and mostly unique cards giving glimpses of life and the countryside of Teso as well as other parts of Uganda, especially some of the National Parks. Heidi Klinner, a professional photographer from Germany who has been to Teso with me twice, has also made some of her beautiful photographs available as photo cards. The proceeds from the sale of every card goes directly to the work of TESS to help support children through post-primary education. When you have finished looking at the photos on this page, please take time to look at the rest of our website and find out more about our work in Teso.

Mouse over pictures to enlarge

Flowers and plants

This little flower is an Abutillon species which I found growing low on the ground in Teso near the Nyero rock paintings. The evening sunlight accentuated the rich colours and texture of the petals whilst casting shadows from the stamens.

There is a corridor of large shallow lakes and grassy swamps winding its way through the vast, open landscapes of Teso. Delicately scented water lilies are found throughout, standing above their pale green leaves which float on the surface of the water.

The blue of the sky is intensified when reflected in the glass-like water. The lilies and their reflections add to the patterns and rich colours created by other reflections of reeds and grasses and clouds.

Fishermen silently punt through the still waters in canoes made from 'dug out' tree trunks. During droughts and the long dry season at the turn of each year, the swamps dry out forcing people to dig in the mud for mudfish.

Although Teso is the flatest region of Uganda, there are many high rocky outcrops strewn with amazing boulders which can be as big as double-storey houses. Some appear to be precariously balanced on top of each other. Many people assume they are volcanic when in fact they are a form of granite. These rocks form natural rock gardens on a large scale and provide the right environment for this Aloe species.

Another flower that is often growing amongst the boulders of Teso is the Leonotis or Lion's Ear. From a distance, it is not very striking, with only a few flowers on the balls of green calices which are spaced out on a tall stem. But focus in closely and be amazed by the deep red buds hidden inside toothed cup-like calices and the furry orange flowers with a white "tongue" protruding.

This is a spray of mango flowers. There are many different varieties of mangoes growing in different parts of Uganda and ripening at different times. Almost every home in Teso has a mango tree in the compound, mainly to provide shade for all family activities. Children get so much fun from climbing high into the trees, as well as throwing stones up to knock the fruit down, which they eat whilst still hard and unripe!

When they ripen in season, there is such a glut that they cover the ground, giving off a strong smell as they start to rot! During times of famine in Teso and when people have been displaced in their thousands into camps during times of insurgency, mangoes, even when small and green, are what often keep children alive.

Morning Glory is named because each of the stunning blue flowers only lasts for one morning (or perhaps an hour or two beyond midday). New flowers open with the early morning sun each day.

The blues compete with the changing blues of the sky as the day progresses, but can also be tinged with purple, whilst the base and centre of the flowers are white.

These are Datura flowers (sometimes called Moon Flowers) which prefer cooler, wetter climates than you get in Teso. After a dramatic hail and rain storm at Sipi Falls in the foothills of Mount Elgon.

I spent a happy hour photographing the trumpet-like hanging Datura flowers. The different shades of delicate salmon pink flowers were enhanced by the evening light shining on them. Raindrops which hung from the flowers reflected the surrounding hills, albeit upside down! The scent attracted honey bees.

The evening light shone through to the inside of the base of the trumpet-shaped pale yellow Datura flowers, making them glow. Having hidden during the hail and rain, the scent and the glowing colour attracted so many honey bees which squeezed past the lens as I put the camera inside the trumpet to photograph them sucking nectar and collecting pollen

Unlike most parts of Uganda, the swamps and lakes of Teso have reeds and grasses instead of papyrus, with the flat leaves of water lilies floating between them on the surface of the water. The fishermen of Lake Opeta still live as they have done for hundreds of years, isolated in little grass huts built on floating islands of grass and reeds. There is a rich variety of greens, reds and browns in the colour of the reeds and their reflections.

The river Nile flows out of Lake Victoria northwards into Lake Kyoga (whose northern shores are in Teso), then out of Lake Kyoga north west into Lake Albert and then northwards out of Lake Albert into Sudan. It is this part of the Nile you can see in this photo. Amongst the grass which is grazed every night by hippos (I am standing by one of their paths out of the water), I found these beautiful mushrooms. The low early morning sunlight picked out the flaky surface of the mushrooms as well as shining little beads of dew still nestling on the surface.

Birds

The Grey Crowned Crane (or sometimes still called by its more attractive name, the Golden Crested Crane) is the national emblem of Uganda and appears in the centre of its flag. They pair for life, but also join together in large flocks where they take part in graceful courtship dances. Although quite common in the south west of Uganda, they are now extremely rare in Teso, many young people never having seen one. I was very lucky to see these in Teso.

The exquisitely coloured Abyssinian Roller is one of my favourite birds. It is particularly common in Soroti (the main town of Teso). It is usually seen perched on wires or on the tops of poles. I have occasionally seen it do its amazing rolling display as it flies.

Almost every home has one or more chickens, and usually a flock of little chicks following a hen, proof of the prowess of handsome cocks like this one. Although a few people have good quality hybrid laying hens, the majority are local birds like this cock. He is clearly proud of his fine, silky feathers which are so richly coloured.

Animals

Most homes have one or more mongrel dogs around the compound. They are not treated as pets, but are kept to guard the home, especially at night when they are allowed to roam free. However, they never leave messes anywhere near the compound or on paths. Since there is no control over them, they frequently have puppies!

Again, most people have one or more goats. Local goats are very small and are only used for meat. They are a good source of income since they can breed twice a year. Only the texture of this kid picks it out from the rocky granite ledge it is standing on!

Very few wild animals now exist outside the National Parks of Uganda, due to pressures from people for land and hunting for food. Beautifully delicate little Oribis are common in Murchison Falls National Park, living in twos and threes and often mixing with other grazing antelopes. MFNP is now easily accessible from Teso (only about 3-4 hours) since the Great North Road (from Cape Town to Cairo, which passes through Teso) has been recently tarmacked all the way.

Elephants are my favourite animal, partly because they are so intelligent, sensitive and caring. They live in family groups headed by a mature matriarch who can live for 50 years or more. They move away when there are conflicts between people, not just because they tend to be killed for food at such times, but also because they are so sensitive to fighting. Since the Lord's Resistance Army (LRA) left northern Uganda in about 2006, not only is it safe for the elephants to return to MFNP, but it is also safe for tourists to visit.

The early morning sun highlighted the wonderful patterns on the hide of this large female while she was picking and eating thorny acacia branches with her sensitive trunk. Who said wrinkles aren't beautiful?!

Landscapes and Scenery

The river Nile, flows from Lake Kyoga to Lake Albert on its way through northern Uganda. The vast river crashes through a narrow gorge in the cliffs at what is called Murchison Falls. It is this which gives the National Park its name as the Nile flows through the park.

Boats take tourists within about half a kilometre of the falls, which is the closest they can get because of the turbulence of the water which is still foaming and churning with strong undercurrents, especially after heavy rain. The scenery and power of the falls is awesome.

It is possible to walk to the top of Murchison Falls. However, the spray from the huge volume of water as the Nile crashes 40m through such a narrow gap soaks you and your camera within seconds! But what takes your breath away is the spectacular rainbow which is more brilliant in its colours than any I have ever seen. You can just glimpse the river through the gorge as it continues its way on towards Lake Albert.

Even before the Nile is forced towards the narrow gorge where it plummets over the rocky cliffs, the waters rage over the rocks just above the falls with a terrifying roar which can be heard for miles around.

Insects

Apart from mosquitoes, which are so common in Teso and cause so much serious malaria, and some biting ants, most insects are harmless as well as being fascinating, beautiful and often bizarre. No-one needs to keep praying mantises and stick insects as pets as they are so easy to see and watch in Teso! The camera focused on and enabled me to see details of this praying mantis's head, eyes, mouth, legs and wings which I couldn't see with my own eyes. Every part of its body is so beautifully created, and ideal for hiding amongst leaves in bushes and trees.